Rémy Pannier Anjou Le Père Rémy 2020

Practised largely on white wines, bâtonnage – beating – consists of stirring the lees at the bottom of the vat or barrel to put them back into suspension, with the goal of increasing the matter, and thus the taste and scent complexity.

In practice, the tasting of the “Le Père Remy” vintage, made entirely of chenin grapes, is a paragon of richness because of this method. The nose is impressive with scents of lemon, fresh apricot, papaya, fennel and oregano. In the mouth, a both crisp and salty attack combines with the fruity flavours of citrus marmalade jam, and of hazelnut.

Good with menus of fat-rich foods such as raclette … accompanied by arugula to salve the conscience.

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Mastroberardino Greco di Tufo 2021

Aged in vat in the classic manner, meaning that the lees have been removed, so no battonage here, the Greco di Tufo de Mastroberardino is just right for fans of a more delicate and mineral white, with moderate liveliness.

The subtle flavours of citrus and Asiatic pear will play well with a fish poached in cream.

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Altolandon Rosalia Manchuela 2017

No phylloxera for Rosalia. A ravaging flea – a grape vine parasite – phylloxera devastated the European vineyards at the end of the 19th century. It cannot, however, survive at high altitudes.

Located a 1,080 metres of altitude, the vines – which were spared and are now over one hundred years old – of Domaine AltoLandon produce less in view of their age and, as a result, give wines that are rich, with a concentrated scent and flavour.

In the glass, a bouquet of ripe blackberries, black olives, cloves and green peppercorns, followed in the mouth by the same flavours. Freshness and velvety texture co-exist in the mouth, where balance continues on a spicy finish and soft, silky tannins.

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