Just imagine the roots of the grape vine digging into soil made up of oyster shells 150 million years old. The geologist calls this soil Kimmeridgian; the wine-lover calls it Chablis.

Roger Roblot Chablis Premier Cru Vaillon 2021

The Lamblin family obtained this small 1.3-hectare plot from Roger Roblot; it’s classed Chablis 1er cru Vaillons, one of the climates having this exceptional soil. Typically brilliant, the pale yellow colour with pretty greenish hints announces a dry white.

Even when young, the nose is complex with hints of cut hay, flint (silex), lemon and hazelnuts reminiscent of Fino (sherry). The mouth: tension, mineral note, elegance.

Classic pairing: white fish with beurre blanc. Simple and perfect.

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Batea Sense Terra Alta 2021

At the end of 1950, 101 wine-producers from Spain’s Batea commune founded the cooperative Celler Batea so that wines from this part of the country would be recognized beyond the borders. Their efforts paid off.

The “Sense”, 100 percent white grenache, is organic, with minimal sulphites and unfiltered, which explains its slight cloudiness…but it’s a beautiful golden colour. Scents of pineapple, apricot and Golden apple in the nose. Numerous flavours, richness without weight on a long finish, slightly mentholated.

Regional pairing: bites of fig rolled in Pata Negra.

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Coterie Grenache & Syrah 2021

The Mediterranean climate is also characteristic of other wine-growing regions such as South Africa, specifically in the Franschhoek valley, where the young and gifted J.D. Rossouw, oenologist with Wildeberg Vineyard, practises carbonic maceration and manages to deliver supremely digestible young wines.

Here, it’s the grenache/syrah pair that demonstrate the art. The nose is only of ripe – even stewed – fruit which would theoretically mean a ropy wine. But no! A lively fluid mouth on notes of fresh fruit, slightly peppery and a tad tannic.

Ideal for “hot & smoky” menus.

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