Choosing a bottle of wine can be a simple matter when you can identify the grape varietals you prefer or select it through loyalty to your favourite labels. Having a reference is reassuring. But suddenly, there’s a whole range of ancient varieties of indigenous wines, unknown for the most part, which are added to and transform the familiar landscape of the Vitis vinifera varieties of grape.

The important introduction of these indigenous varieties onto the market can be explained by their adaptation and resistance to climate changes. These Phoenixlike representatives of a new wine-growing era differentiate themselves through their well-defined aromatic profiles and have a more-than-promising potential in food-wine pairing. In short, new recruits in the field of gastronomic matching.

The Xarel-lo from Domaine Albet i Noya is one of these grapes with the wind in its sails. Grown using only organic agriculture and made from a single grape varietal, this white wine builds its framework in acacia barrels. Scents of ripe pears, a rather sexy medium -ropy mouth feel with a surprising, agreeable freshness. There’s something here that will work well with the tender flesh of a Thai-barbecued salmon or with a crab cake at the cocktail hour…or both!

A thirst for comfort…which is totally justifiable in these trying times

Whether it’s with sautéed basil-tomato gnocci, a skirt steak with shallots and beurre noir, or more simply, a Milanaise-style osso buco, the top priority is enjoying yourself. Made solely of the Nebiolo grape varietal, the 2017 barbaresco from Villadoria will work well with seasonal comfort foods.

It has floral fragrances, ample mouth, scents of black cherries, chubby tannins which wallow in the elegance of a perfectly ripe fruit, but in particular, a subtle fresh-ness that maintains the beauty of this fruit which provides the most delicious finish.The talented Paola, proud next generation of the Lanzavecchia family, offers us this noble flask at a price point below thirty dollars.

It’s a chance to stock up on some comfort!

Bubbles are to December what snow is to Tremblant…. Magical!

The Champagne appellation is without doubt the most sought-after at this time of year. This has not escaped the new generation of winemakers who are revamping traditions and making the terroir speak as naturally as possible.

“Pas d’affinage, pas de filtration, pas de ‘bullshit’ “! (No refining, no filtration, no “bullshit”!) is the slogan extolled by Aurélien Gerbais, 4th generation of the Gerbais family in Champagne.

The Grains de Celles cuvee from the Gerbais estate is a fine example of a perfectly natural champagne.

Natural yeasts, vinification in stainless steel tanks, rest for 36 months on laths, without dosage and without added SO2. What follows is effervescence of distinguished charm joined with a crunchy mouth reminiscent of nashi – an Asiatic pear.

It’s dry, it’s straight, it’s 100 % Côte des Bar and impeccably natural. Having a few fresh oysters with lime, pepper and dill along with the flute is a must.

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