This month, let’s explore a wine-growing area too often forgotten: that of the south-west. Because of its geographic location, it has often been under the control of others: first the Romans, then the merchants of Bordeaux. With an impressive neighbour like Bordeaux, which has a port city, it took some time for this wine-growing region to retake possession of its terroir and make its mark. Until early in the 20th century, the focus was on mass production, and productivity was more important that creating quality wines. A renaissance period occurred towards the middle of the century, which was good for local, higher quality grapes. “Appellations d’origine” began to be seen, such as Bergerac (1936)and Madiran (1948).

The arrival of the artisan of renewal

In the early ‘80s, a handful of vintners took back possession of their territory. Alain Brumont is one of these. This visionary man, independent and a worthy heir to the land of his ancestors, caused the rebirth of the Madiran wines. A few vintages later, the quality of his wines is recognized, as is their unique character. His Montus 2013 château vintage is a good example. Made largely from tannat, a regional grape, it has a generous mouth with good presence of ripe black fruits.  Full in the mouth, the wine has fleshy tannins and liquorice notes that add a nice complexity to the whole. It pairs well with magret of duck or a flap steak prepared with wild mushrooms.

Another grape emblematic of the south-west, the Malbec or Auzerrois, also boasts a lot of character. It is found along the full length of the Lot valley, in Cahors. The Combal vintage, to which a bit of merlot has been added, goes wonderfully well with fruit with warm spices such as cumin and cinnamon. In it are found melting tannins, quite subtle, and freshness. The perfect texture for a highly flavourful wine. Goes well with lamb chops with herbs and rosemary on a salad of beets with cumin.

As September reminds us of harvest time, why not take to Quebec’s wine route and help encourage our local vintners? The 2018 vintage promises to be exceptional.

Enjoy your tastings!

Château Montus, Madiran, 2013   SAQ 705483  $29.10

Le Combal, 2014  SAQ 10675001  $20.90